Over a hundred pieces by women designers and artisans are featured in “Made it: The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion,” at the Peabody Essex Museum. From extremely rare 18th century ornate mantuas to present-day creations by Mary Katrantzou and Maria Grazia Chiuri, and from serious eveningwear by Isabel Toledo and Ann Lowe, to off-the-rack casual basics by Tracy Reese.

Succinct anecdotes of these women’s contribution to the discipline and history of fashion design and the garment business are just as important as the pieces that are on display. After all, the word “revolutionary” is in focus and the exhibit showed us why.

As for example, right on the cusp of the 1900s, when men dominated the business of Paris couture, three sisters founded the house, Callot Soeurs, which Vogue later declared as a force “that rule the destinies of a woman’s life and increase the income of France.” It also made note of Hattie Carnegie, who was born Henrietta Kanengeiser but changed her last name after the wealthiest man at that time and created a brand by hiring a design team to execute her vision. A true “influencer” of her time, she even had a style column in Vogue, all this from an enterprising Austrian immigrant who didn’t even know how to sew.

The exhibit states that in the 18th and 19th centuries, men dominated the (fashion) guilds and only male tailors were delegated to cut textiles. Women served as seamstresses while men took the higher roles that require decision-making. Much later on, a handful of fearless women rallied to form their own guilds, thus, breaking this hostile and androcentric system.

Aside from the names mentioned here, the show also features the works of Coco Chanel, Donna Karan, Elsa Schiaparelli, Sandra Rhodes, Norma Kamali, Madame Grès, Stella McCartney, Rei Kawakubo, Jeanne Lanvin, and several others.

While many fashion exhibits deliver the wonder of every piece, this show gives us not only that, but also the backstory of the women who revolutionized this trillion dollar industry.

Made It: The Women Who Revolutionized Fashion is on view through March 14, 2021.

photos: © 2021 Arturo Veloira

click on photos for a full screen view.

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